Sunday, December 12, 2010

Other Tongues

There is something mystical about hearing words spoken in a different tongue. This experience is further amplified when you have absolutely NO idea what the other person is talking about. Travellers will tell you about conversations they had in distant lands, conducted half in pantomime and half in mashed-up gibberish, but usually all in good will. When the semantics of a language fail to be the primary basis of communication, a deeper, more rudimentary exchange takes it place, which ironically, is where many of us listen most earnestly.


From personal experience, I’ve been able to deduce enough about a person with the way they handle their mother-tongue. Even more telling is their usage of a second, or even third, language. And the later in life a secondary language is acquired, the more insight you can hope to glean. Personalities are further revealed after that internal translation of thought into speech, showing up in the cadence of their words. It is strangely intimate when someone decides to speak to you in another language; it’s as if they are letting you in on a little secret. More often than not, their skills are rusty, leading to great pauses in their speech and embarrassment written all over their faces. Hold on to those moments whenever you encounter them.


People tend to relate strong emotions to the things they don’t quite understand, at least, from an American perspective. French has the reputation of being the language of lovers, of sensuality. Russian is often portrayed as being excessively coarse and authoritative. Most Asian languages are thought to either be comical or downright bewildering – the guttural noises and strange intonations leading many to believe that they’re listening to the cries of dying animals. Thus, there can be an emotionally laden preconception of a culture or people based off a very quick and fundamental analysis of the way they SOUND.


I don’t think I’ve ever said anything of substance to another person with Chinese or Spanish. Everything I’ve said in those languages can probably be found in a textbook or worse yet, on television. However, I can tell you that when I manage to avoid mincing my words, I express myself in an honest and straightforward fashion. There is no subtext, secondary meaning, or innuendo. Strangely enough, achieving this kind of simplicity in English is nearly impossible. But back to the emotional content: Why do so many people have tattoos of words that they draw strength or serenity from in another language? Why do we doggedly repeat phrases like “Carpe Diem”? Why would we rather say things like “hello”, “goodbye”, or “I love you” differently?


Maybe it’s because the most important things to us have been overexpressed into the realm of the mundane, of triteness. Maybe, something just SOUNDS better when spoken in a different language. Or maybe, we’re just dying to hear something new, something that touches us deeply before our analytical minds have the chance to chop it all up into neat little pieces.


We’ve all heard this saying: “What’s been said has already been said.” Also: “Someone’s probably said it better already.” Rarely, however, do we appreciate the fact that these statements go much further in the context of how many languages exist in the world today.


Yes, I have experienced this Other Tongue profundity. This person picked up some Japanese in high school, and it was obvious that it was rather difficult to pick the right words. What came out, I believe to be a confession of sorts, but I can’t be too sure. Anyway, though I’ll never know what was exactly said, I’m left with a certain warmth that it was probably the most honest and heartfelt gesture I've ever seen.

Friday, December 10, 2010

More Observations About Taiwan

I’ve been witnessing the end game of commitment here in Taiwan – ailing grandpas in various states of incontinence, tended to by their wrinkled wives who have their own back problems, spending the twilight of their years driving each other crazy (the unsexy kind of crazy). You’d think personal growth and learning at their age would have stopped years ago, but there are still domestic disputes, lectures, and lessons to be learned from both sides. It’s depressing or hopeful, depending on how you look at it. In the West, we keep death and old age at bay by ignoring it (or sending your pruning relatives to a nursing home in Florida)… all the way until we are forced to confront it face to face, by staring into a waxen corpse lying in a casket, or through the ceremony of scattering ashes. Or ultimately, as a sudden vacuum that knocks your wind out.

People live in a sort of temporal overlap here – grown men and women live with their parents, who live with their parents. There is wisdom abound, but I cannot tap into the depths of it because of my limited appreciation of Chinese.

Back to my point here – living among the old and infirm has not only been a reminder of my own mortality, but also of what commitment REALLY means. It’s going to the supermarket together to buy dinner ingredients so that you don’t accidently trigger her lactose intolerance again. It’s taking care of your senile husband as he slowly forgets the life he spent with you. Its years and years of trouble and worry mixed in with the triumphs and failures that one can never predict. A unit fails just as much as the individual. It’s beautiful and tragic, and it’s completely natural… yet it is as foreign to me as the string of insults the legless/toothless/flea-ridden homeless man mumbles at me as I am getting off the subway terminal during the silent wee hours of night.

The type of people I pity the most here are those shells of humans who cling to life alone, reluctantly breathing amongst the stench and refuse that even the rain refuses to sweep away. These people have no kin, no connection, and no hope. They even lack the entrepreneul spirit of the American homeless. They are the most desolate beings I have ever encountered – they have even abandoned themselves.

I suppose it’s no coincidence that I have to realize all of this year, finally past the afterglow of my college years, sitting in a small room alone in a foreign country as the rain pitter-patters above. I want to choose life, I want to have options, and I want to have the petty and overbearing care of a family that can help make the inevitable aging process go by with a certain element of grace. Maybe I’m secretly still a sucker for that self-sacrificial, unconditional love that those Chinese dramas keep babbling about incoherently, the kind that involves a lot of tears and a dead hero who didn’t have to actually die.

Daughters and Mothers

I’m on the BART heading into San Francisco. There’s a little girl, groaning while she stretches out over two seats, feet dangling off the edge and into the aisle. Her mother sits on the inside seat while her daughter’s head rests in her lap.

The mother coos, “Do you want to go back?” She’s rubbing her daughter’s stomach in broad strokes, as if she were petting a cat.

“No, no, no no no,” groans the kitten.

“Are you sure? We can go back. We’re not too far,” Mom says.

“No no no. I wanna go.” The little girl winces and the train suddenly develops a muted howl. We’re in a tunnel.

“Okay then, pumpkin.” Mom rubs her little girl’s stomach in broad strokes, as if she were painting her soon-to-be baby daughter’s room cornflower blue on a stepstool when she’s 6 months pregnant.

“I want to see Daddy,” says baby girl, curled up and resting her head on her mother’s thighs. “And Richie.” She pauses for a few seconds before groaning again.

“Oh, we’ll definitely see them, sweet pea.” Mom looks down on her lap and sees her daughter all curled up and begins to brush her hair. She runs her hand through the curls of her curled up daughter. The howling stops and the cabin is bathed in natural light.

Out the portside window is Oakland harbor. It’s a clear day.

“Remember the horsies, baby?” Mom points with her eyes and shifts her weight in the seat as her daughter sits up and cranes her neck to see the numerous cranes lining the harbor out the window. Mom continues to stroke her girl’s hair.

“Yeah. They’re so big. I wish I… could see…. ‘em run.” The little girl looks up to her mother and then out the window again.

Her body becomes very still.

The little girl opens her mouth like an Olympic swimmer gasping for air after a photo finish, jaw hanging from the hinges, and proceeds to vomit all over her mom.

“S…Sorry mommy,” groans the little girl, strings of saliva connecting her mouth to the pile of vomit on her mother’s lap.

“FOR CHRIST’S SAKE EMILY, YOU COULD HAVE TOLD ME YOU WERE GOING TO BE SICK ALL OVER ME!
SHIT!”

On Time Travel (not what you think)

Children like to dance at the airport. I’ve seen a boy once do cartwheels into a row of chairs. He picked himself up and did a few more in the opposite direction.

Today, there’s a little blonde girl with a plastic crown on her head and she keeps spinning on the toes of one foot. She’s poised like a ballerina and looks as good as those girls performing the Nutcracker on PBS. Even though I know she will fall, I’m slightly concerned when it happens anyway, this time because her crown is on its side rolling away. She giggles and gets back up and chases after it in a dizzying stupor. Then it’s on her head and she’s spinning again, and I’m looking at the crown with its red, blue, green, and purple jewels that become part of a carousel until they blur or she falls again.

She will keep doing this for another 29 minutes. I keep watching because this is the most entertaining thing that anyone is doing here.

There’s an old lady across from me who farts but isn’t ashamed because the brim of her floppy hat droops over her face. She’s sleeping, I guess. I suppose people fart in their sleep, and this is reasonable because burping in your sleep seems entirely unreasonable. The gas has to come out SOMEWHERE. There’s a business man poking at his PDA and a woman sitting with one leg crossed over the other, admiring her glossy fingernails as she cradles her cell phone between her ear and shoulder, talking about her latest round of marital issues. A tired mother rocks her restless baby; a boy staring at his Nintendo DS with thumbs pumping.

And me, I’m quietly looking at everyone else and taking mental notes. But I guess the point that I’m getting to is that we’re all existing in different times.

We’re time travelling. You must think I’m stupid for saying this because we’re all existing in the same room waiting to board the same flight at 3:45 pm and that it’s currently 2:33 pm on a Sunday afternoon, January 24th, 2010, to me and everyone else there. And that’s totally accurate.

But the girl that’s dancing is in the present and the guy making notes on his PDA is in the future and I’m in the past because everything I just wrote just now is a recollection of what’s already happened four days ago. And the woman who’s farting and may or may not be sleeping? I don’t even know what tense she’s in. But we’re all someplace else.

My mind wanders all the time.

Sometimes, I’ll be driving alone late at night. I’ll be winding through a road I’ve gone down a million times and my mind will start bending like the road in front of me. Although I’m not exactly losing focus (which I totally am if you think about it), I’ll start thinking about that conversation about God I had with a friend last week, or this pretty girl I like but won’t get to see until next Thursday, or the time years ago when two of my friends got high and walked through Safeway on pins and needles because one of them brought in Animal Crackers from home and thought that we were all going to be arrested because we were eating lions and elephants that we couldn’t afford, inside the store. The speed limit becomes an afterthought and the back of my mind tells me that I should turn off my high beams when cars are coming from the other direction because that’s the right thing to do and not because they might be temporarily blinded and crash into me.

I guess I can understand now why people drag out their friend who just got dumped by their significant other. Their present reality is so painfully incomprehensible that they need to replace it with an alternate one, one which grants them a perspective that will allow them to pick, with greater clarity, which timeline they want to resume their life in. Life doesn’t suck anymore. You’re already in the future. Someone else might see the whole action of going out to forget the breakup as a useless endeavor because the person in turmoil would simply be postponing the psychological torment for a later time and that tricking them into a plastic happiness is simply an evanescent illusion that would make the ensuing solitude that much worse. The guy who said that probably thinks he’s living in the future when he’s really stuck in the past. Or maybe that guy’s just stuck.

A little over two weeks ago, I had brunch with a friend. These are the important things: having a job (security), monitoring your current BMI (health and beauty), and not dying alone (love). That’s what she stressed, between dim sum and our post meal walk into some hills. There was fresh rain on the pavement and the world felt new. She talks about the older lady who told her about the man she married when she was young and in love. The man cheated on her and moved away with most of the money, leaving her alone in a big empty house. After that story, she’s telling me how she’s thinking about living in a particular neighborhood in a particular city because it’s a respectable enough place to live and no one will think less of her because where you live often reflects how much you earn which may or may not reflect your overall worth as a human being. The houses there are cute and they’re built on hills with views of the sea and she can just say that she likes living here just because it’s nice like that and this is reason enough for most people.

Then we’re in a bar and we’re talking about suicidal writers over cocktails. It’s probably just one in the afternoon. The bartender points to a gigantic buffalo head mounted on the other side of the bar. It’s a taxidermist’s wet dream and I didn’t realize it was even there and probably wouldn’t have if she hadn’t pointed it out. Hunter S. Thompson blew his brains out while his family went about their usual business in the next room. Iris Chang put a revolver in her mouth as she sat in a car and pulled the trigger a few years after one of my other friends interviewed her for a middle school book report. Ernest Hemingway blew his brains out in Idaho with a shotgun, using his big toe to set the gun off.

This isn’t your everyday conversation but I’m glad I’m (t)here having it with her. That giant furry head with horns nailed to the bar is going to spend more time watching people get drunk than it has when it was attached to a body, roaming on an open plain with wind whipping in its face. I tip the bartender and we leave.

But here I am right now, writing. And I’m alive. I’m breathing. But I know I’m not HERE, NOW. But that’s okay because I have the choice to do so. And it’s important to know that you can travel whenever you want, WHEN you want. Pardon the redundancy but that’s the best way I can put it. Time travelling CAN create distance between events, a rift between people. The same time that mends broken hearts can also put a glass pane between you and the world. Knowing and feeling break their kinship. Mindless time travelling can prevent you from fully engaging yourself in an experience, from living the way you are supposed to. People can’t spend their lives watching themselves doing things in the third person.

That’s why I’ve been continuously watching the little girl in the airport who spins and falls and gets back up again to spin some more. She’s waiting for an airplane ride that she doesn’t care about to deliver her from her naïve and limited appreciation of time to someplace else in another time zone, touching down on another day, and finally walking amongst total strangers who share no history – no real time - with her.

But I think she’ll be fine if she keeps on dancing.

Strangeness in the Bay

Cassandra’s face is crushing against the floor, her body nearly prostrate save her stiff limbs, slightly bent at the joints, miraculously balancing her entire weight on just her right knee and left elbow. Her ass is in the air, bare and cold to the touch. She’s not wearing any underwear. Reaching behind him, He fishes out a red bikini bottom from a cardboard box and slowly, carefully, slides it up her legs until the elastic fits snugly around her sharp hips.

He picks her up, hands tugging at her slender waist, until she is back on her two feet. Cassandra stands tall; her bare breasts defiant to both his gaze and to gravity.

“What do you think, Gina?” He asks, turning his head. Behind him is an older woman, dressed in a sophisticated suit, a set of knuckles pressed against her left hip. As usual, her neutrality convinces him.

“I don’t like it either. But that’s how they want her.”

He leaves Cassandra topless and walks off to the bathroom. He feels around his pockets for a cigarette but find a warm stick of gum instead. He think “Seal” is playing on the speakers.

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As you pass the Lafayette BART Station on Highway 24, you see a hill behind it that’s covered with graves. A cemetery made mostly of bone-white wooden crosses. Someone else would say, “Why on Earth would anyone be buried here?” To that you would respond, “So that their souls can ride BART into San Francisco city, and if they choose, to the airport so they can go anywhere in the world they want to.”

You would be 10 years old.

If the Trojans buried their dead with a coin placed over each eye so that they could pay the boatman fare to cross the river Styx for their inevitable afterlife, I guess the people buried on that hill in Lafayette would need to have transit cards tucked in their breast pockets, one way.

But it’s a mock memorial for US troops that have died in Iraq.

“No one’s going anywhere today because it’s Christmas in a few hours and I have to get you home so that you can open the present I got for you. It’s Call of Duty 4, the first one. You get to be a British Special Ops agent who fights in Russia and a US Marine that invades the Middle East. I know you wanted the second one, but it was sold out.”

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“Nick Manning is like, a porn star or something,” she explains. “He’s got this soundboard that’s online with all his catch phrases. It’s really gross because they’re taken from the pornos he’s in and you can hear girls moaning in the background or something.

“You should totally check it out.”

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After a few beers, we walk outside. It’s a late cold night with still air and any sound I hear sobers me up a little. My friend is cold; her arms are folded over her chest when I offer her my jacket. I wonder if she’s really cold because she doesn’t zip up the jacket – she just lets it drape over her shoulders. Suddenly, I’m thinking about cloaks and mantles as a possible modern fashion trend and then about vampires because that’s the kind of thing they would wear because I had just re-read “Interview with the Vampire” and proper vampires dress like Louis and Lestat and proper vampires would sleep in a coffin at night and fear the sun and not sparkle like diamonds like the “vampires” do in “Twilight”.

And then we walk around a corner and nearly step into a shopping cart. It’s full of the usual hobo junk but the proprietor of the cart is standing there alone, flossing his teeth.

I almost stop completely to gawk at this but my friend tugs at my arm and I am forced to rubberneck as I walk her back to her car.

Once upon a time, in and around the alley

Love grows, anger seethes, and we’ll forgiven if we can get through all of this with our eyes open.

I am walking one day, alone, hands thrust into my pockets as I pass through an alley wedged between a row of paint-stripped garages connected by rotting wooden fence posts and a chain-link fence that binds a school’s asphalt playground that always seems empty. When I walk through this alley, my attention inexplicably shifts to the beat-up garages, as bits of glass and refuse crunch under my shoes.

I know that the first garage, despite its ramshackle veneer, houses a H2 Hummer. I’d see the man, hair oiled and slicked back, looking over his shoulder as he inches the hulking vehicle back into the tiny space, the gold rings on his fingers sweeping across the steering wheel as the giant wheels groan in alignment. After parking, this man would have a quick exchange with an elderly woman that oftentimes came out to greet him, dropping the keys into her hands before disappearing around the corner. The second garage holds a dog that madly barks as it claws the thin door whenever I pass by. I get rattled every time this happens, even if I know exactly what to expect. I guess I imagine the garage door finally disintegrating and suddenly having a row of teeth sawing at my neck. I’ve learned to keep a steady pace, however. Being jumpy wouldn’t help me in any situation.

The third garage door never opens; it’s covered in an overgrowth of vines that have taken residence deep within the surrounding concrete. The last two garages are inconsequential. Actually, I don’t remember any details about them because they were wholly unremarkable. But there definitely are 5 garages on that stretch. Between the 4th and 5th garage is a telephone pole covered with peeling Lost and Found queries. Sometimes, I would take pictures of them and think of reasons why they ran away or lost themselves.

I’ve seen dead rats curled up by the garbage bins that line the streets every Tuesday, and I’ve seen a homeless couple fornicating behind the dumpster sitting at the end of the alley on a clear Sunday morning, birds hidden in a nearby tree singing between the raspy moans and the man wheezing “Fuck that pussy”. Just 2 blocks away from this alley is a 7-11 that’s heavily solicited; I had gotten some ice cream there one time with a friend and had just stepped out of the store to take the back alley home, only to be treated to the sight of a disheveled woman pulling down her sweatpants and underwear to piss on a wall. The resulting trickle settled into a cloudy pool next to a stained twin-sized mattress propped against the wall. “Mmm shit yeah feels good,” she said, bracing herself against the wall with both hands. I was licking an orange sherbet Flintstones push-pop, something I’ve loved since I was 6. I don’t remember what my friend got, but I think it was chocolate.

On another night, that same friend and I had make acquaintances with a travelling couple in front of the 7-11. They are drinking whiskey and coke out of a Super Big-Gulp cup and they offer us some. We oblige, taking turns sipping from the same green straw as we sit on the concrete parking blocks, the ensuing conversation drifting towards their method of making money on the side. The man becomes silent, as if contemplating the floor in front of him. The girl looks at us and asks, “So, you guys ever try Molly?” We shake our heads. “You gotta try it some time. It’s like Adam, but not as speedy.” She smiles at us, causing her nose to wrinkle. We’re skeptical. But we take down the girl’s phone number to be polite. Two weeks later, we end up calling her to check on her inventory. “Yeah, I have some of that. But I’ve got a date later tonight. Do you think you can come pick it up right now?” Suddenly we’re out the apartment and into the car, racing towards sweet oblivion.

4 hours later: “I don’t feel shit.” We’re sitting on the couch, staring at the TV but not really watching it.

We were walking back to the apartment some other time at 2 am. There’s a tattered woman with pain written on her face, leaning against a car that’s obviously not hers. Her friend/boyfriend/husband/companion’s eyes are desperate as they lock on anyone who gives him a moment’s worth of eye contact. I keep my head down, but my friend is careless. “HEY! HEY! Hey man! My girl here is having some chest pains. I think it might be her heart. Man lemme use your cell phone so I can call a motherfuckin’ doctor, aight?” We keep walking. “HEY man I’m talking to you! We gotta call now man! Look at her!” The man is missing a few front teeth. His skin is covered in dirt and grime. My friend slows his pace, though never completely stopping, and says, “uh…I gotta go.”

My friend is a little drunk.

We’ve already walked past the man. “You gotta… go? What the fuck kind of bullshit is this? ‘I GOTTA GO’.”

We walk faster.

“FUCK YOU, man! ‘I GOTTA GO!? Get the fuck out of here you piece of shit. FUCK YOU, MOTHERFUCKER!” His cursing follows even after we round the corner, his hoarse voice tearing into the night. “Fuck this shit!”

A couple of days later, I see the couple standing at their usual spot, eyes glassy as they constantly shift their weight between their feet, sweating the day away.

Before the alley, I walk past a young white man with thick rimmed glasses wearing a T-shirt with skinny jeans. The shirt reads “Die, Hipster Scum.” He nods and smiles at me as we pass each other. I think that the definition of “irony” is completely lost on me at this point.

Past the alley and the 7-11 is a rusty train station. A train shudders to a halt every 12 minutes here, whisking some odd-dozen number of people towards a place where the walls aren’t stained in piss and where people wonder if tomorrow will be different and whether or not if that person walking across the street from them is good in bed.

But the birds don’t sing over there.